How to grow relaxed black hair part 2: Creating a regimen


     It is important to have a regular hair care regimen, which incorporates the basic steps in hair care. Your choice of a hair care regimen depends on the time availablewillingness or ability to handle one’s hair personally and possession of hair styling equipment (a steaming cap, flat iron, hairdryer, etc).

Suggested regimens


     If you have time on your hands and have the necessary equipment, you can:
  • Prepoo once a week with protein and oils (e.g Saturday). Follow this with a shampoo.
  • Shampoo once a week (e.g Saturday) and  co-wash later on in the week. (e.g Wednesday).  Follow with a deep conditioner.
  • Deep condition twice a week. 
  • Air dry/Blow dry/wrap set/roller set. 
  • Style (in a bun preferably). 
  • Moisturize and seal daily or every other day.
  • Massage oil lightly into scalp   
  • Moisturize and seal daily or as needed
     If you have equipment but don’t have enough time, you can:
  • Prepoo once a week with protein and oils followed by a shampoo.
  • Deep condition once a week. 
  •  Air/dry/blow dry/wrap set/roller set.
  • Style (in a bun preferably).
  • Moisturize and seal daily or every other day.
  • Massage oil lightly into scalp 
  • Moisturize and seal daily or as needed
     If you don’t have the equipment, just do the above but in a hair salon.
         Other suggestions
  1. Use a clarifying shampoo once a month (or earlier if your hair feels weighed down or sticky even after washing). Follow this with a protein conditioner and moisturizing deep conditioner.
  2. Use a protein reconstructor every 2 weeks in place of your prepoo.
  3. Use a protein reconstructor a week before you get a relaxer.
     I prefer products without Sodium Lauryl Sulfates (SLS), silicones (cones), petrolatum and mineral oil so all my product recommendations with SLS, silicones and mineral oils shall be indicated. I’m a product junkie, always looking for the perfect product ! So believe me when I say I’ve used most of the products that I’m going to list below:
     1. Prepoo conditioners/protein conditioners:
  • Africa’s best organics olive oil and clove oil therapy. I love this. The day I used this, I didn’t get a single strand on my comb after detangling in the shower. 
  •  Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein conditioner.
  • Aubrey Organics Normalizing conditioner
  • Extra Virgin coconut oil
  • Aloe Vera gel. E.g. Forever Living aloe vera gel
  • Motions deep penetrating treatment (mineral oil, water soluble cones)
  • Motions CPR Treatment conditioner (mineral oil, cones)
  • Organic Root Stimulator hair mayonnaise (cones)
     2. Shampoos
     3. Deep conditioners
     4. Leave-in conditioners
  • Revlon Special feeling
  • Dr Miracle’s healing leave-in treatment
  • L’oreal Sulfate-free moisture leave-in conditioner (cone)
  • Bumble and bumble leave-in conditioner
  • S curl activator (cones)
  • Mane n Tail Daily conditioner
      5. Serum/Heat protectants
  • Paul Mitchell super skinny serum (cones)  
  • Fantasia IC serum (cones)
  • Curly Hair solutions Remane straight
  • AG set it straight straightener
  • FX special effects flat iron spray 
     6. Moisturizers
  • Africa’s best carrot oil
  • Africa’s best olive oil (cones)
  • Africa’s best Shea butter (cones)
  • Jane carter Nourishing cream
  • Organic Root stimulator carrot oil
  • Organic Root stimulator olive oil (mineral oil). I think it makes hair hard so use lightly.
  • Wave nouveau moisturizing finishing lotion
  • S curl activator (cones)
  • Mane n Tail daily conditioner (soluble cones)
     7. Sealants
  • Hollywood beauty mink oil (paraffinum liquidum/mineral oil)
  • Extra virgin coconut oil
  • Olive oil
  • Hot six oil
  • Jane Carter Solution Nourish and shine 
  • Jojoba oil
  • Safflower oil
     8. Scalp oils

     9. Protein reconstructors

  • Motions CPR Protein Reconstructor (cones)
  • Joico K-Pak Deep-penetrating reconstructor (cones)
Check out How to grow relaxed black hair part 1 by clicking HERE.
Sizzling Mommy Signature

   **This post was updated on 30/03/2013**

About the author
Dr Fomsky

Nigerian-born Dr Fomsky is a God-lover, a wife, a mom of three and a medical doctor by day. She is very passionate about hair, skin and weight management. Since she had babies, she's been struggling to keep her weight and her tummy down!
At night, she likes to read books, write blog posts and leave comments on other blogs. She lives in Paris, France and is also the author of Solving your relaxed hair breakage book
HAIR TYPE: 'Texlaxed' hair, High porosity, Fine hair strands, low to moderate density
CURRENT LENGTH: Between shoulder and armpit length
LOVING: Argan oil for sealing, Brown Butter Beauty Love Deep conditioner, Shescentit Blueberry Co-wash conditioner and Hairveda Red Tea Satin Moisturizer
LONG-TERM PLAN: Trim off bone-straight ends (6 inches left) over time

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25 Comments to How to grow relaxed black hair part 2: Creating a regimen

  1. Toju says:

    Do you think dark and lovely products are worth using?

  2. dr_fomsky says:

    Yes some Dark and Lovely products are good. The only ones I can recommend though are the ones I've used before: their relaxer and their cholesterol (for steaming). I'm not sure but I think some of their other products contain mineral oil which some people argue is not good for hair. If any of their products do contain mineral oil, avoid it please just to be on the safe side. Hope I've been of help. Thanks for dropping by Toju. Have a nice day.

  3. Anonymous says:

    Dr, I have read a couple of your articles and i find them very interesting, i will like to also know a couple of things. i stay in the far north where the weather can be extremely harsh, but i use Olive oil shampoo and the conditioner. But from what i read from your article am to use the replenishing park for prepoo , shampoo then and after that i will use the Deep conditioner. but my question is wont i wash my hair first before the prepoo.

    Then secondly which hair cream can i be using, i use carrot oil from African Best product and it looks like its not a regular hair cream.

    i will really appreciate it if i can be cleared on these issues

    Thanks TJ

  4. Jade says:

    Hi there!
    Thanks a lot for the information.
    I recently bought a Dark and Lovely moisturizer but didn't realize till I got home that it had mineral oil in it…
    I would just like to know if it would be a good idea to use it to seal because of the mineral oil? In other words can I use ORS moisturizer on my hair and seal with mineral oil or Dark and Lovely as I know it keeps moisture in. Would this work?

  5. dr_fomsky says:

    Hello anonymous TJ, sorry that I'm only just responding. TJ, a prepoo is done before you shampoo your hair. It helps to prevent excess moisture loss. Secondly, carrot oil is a good moisturizer because I think it has water as one of its ingredients (please correct me if I'm wrong). The only caveat is that due to its water content, it can make your hair frizzy if you use too much. I'd advise you to use it lightly!

  6. dr_fomsky says:

    Hi Jade, sorry for the delay in responding to your comment. I believe you can use the dark and lovely moisturiser to seal but very lightly.
    Sorry for deviating but I would like to know if the ORS moisturiser has some oil in it already? If it does, you might not need another moisturizer to seal. Try going without the dark and lovely sealant and see if your hair dries out or not. If it does, then continue using the oil to seal in the moisture in your hair. If it doesn't, then use the ORS moisturizer 'au soitaire'! Thanks for stopping by!

  7. Ifai says:

    I have a hand dryer. I presume it’s the same as a blow dryer or am I wrong? Can I use it for steaming after wrapping with a plastic cap and a towel. Do you think it would work?

    I’ve had it rough with these salon stylists. their combing techniques wreck serious havoc on all my hard work. I want to challenge myself to style at home for about a month and visit the salon for only retouching.

    • Dr_fomsky says:

      Yes they are the same thing. It’ll be cumbersome I think but it’s possible. What u can do is to warm your oils a bit and microwave a wet towel. Use it to wrap your hair . Read this for detailed instructions. Tk care

  8. missshayee says:

    Alright! Dr, i am just trying to get more clarification. Does it mean i have to follow this regimen week in,week out till i get another relaxer treatment,without doing protective styles like braids and weaves?

  9. Kyesha says:

    PLEASE HELP ME!!! I’ve tried so many different products that’s I’m broke from buying and my hair is still shedding and not health. I flat iron or blow dry 1-2 times a month. I use natural products. I shampoo twice a month. I just stopped using the egg, mayo and beer protein treatme t cause I think it’s shredding my hair. I’m a African American with course dry lifeless bitten up hair. It gets a trimming with every perm(I do at home). The winter ate part of my hair up and the rest just falls out. I’m stressing… Yes. I drink soda… Yes. I don’t brush my hair and I use a wide tooth comb to comb my hair. HELLLLLLLLPPPP. MY HAIR SUCKS UP MOISTURE. I condition it once a week. I hate to even wash my hair. I have some parts shoulder length, some parts to my shoulder and other parts of my hair below my ear. My sink and shoulders have enough hair to build a wig. Helllllpppppp me

    • Dr_fomsky says:

      KYESHIA, sorry for the delayed response. Can you stop flat ironing and blow drying your hair for now till you can get it back in shape? What type of flat iron do you use? Look for an ionic flat iron that is either ceramic, titanium or tourmaline. The egg, mayo and beer protein treatment might have been very heavy duty protein and that could cause excessive breakage.
      What you can do is this: On a day that you’re not going anywhere, wash your hair. Look for a clarifying shampoo or any regular shampoo will do. Wash your hair thoroughly. Condition your hair with any conditioner that doesn’t have protein in it. If the conditioner makes it easy for you to comb your hair, then carefully use your widetooth comb to detangle your hair in at least 4 sections under the shower (with the conditioner still in your hair). Then rinse out the conditioner. When you get out of the shower, squeeze out the excess oil from your hair. Apply a leave-in conditioner that doesn’t contain any protein. If you have a soft brush, you can smoothen the top of your hair. Pin up your ends. Tie a scarf around your hair and let your hair air dry. If it’s not dry by evening, take off the scarf and un-pin your ends. It should dry faster this way. When it is 80% dry, you can carefully comb through your hair in as many sections as possible. I believe that your breakage should be less.
      Every evening, apply a hair moisturizer on your hair. Finger comb through your hair on week days. Only use your comb on wash days.
      If the conditioner doesn’t make it easy for you to comb through your hair, don’t worry. Step out of the shower. Spray a detangling spray and carefully comb through your hair from ends to roots. Apply your leave-ins and follow the rest of what I outlined above.
      I didn’t ask how often you relax your hair. How many weeks post-relaxer are you?

  10. I use sweet almond oil to seal my hair, is this good enough?

  11. I like the valuable info you provide in your articles. I’ll bookmark your weblog and check again here regularly.
    I’m quite sure I’ll learn many new stuff right
    here! Best of luck for the next!

  12. gracey says:

    Hi doc, pls help!
    My hair NEVER EVER GROWS! Recently, I just retouched my hair and instead of it to be longer in length it became SHORTER! What should I do ? Am kinda frustrated cos my hair has NEVER reached my shoulders for once in my life! Am thinking of trimming it a little cos d ends are not equal, the front part is shorter, d middle section longer and the back part shorter too, pls what do I do to get a longer hair? At least to pack it in one bun or for it to get to my shoulders? 🙁

    • Dr_fomsky says:

      Hi Gracey. I’m so sorry for my late response. It’s very probable that your hair grows…I guess that the major problem you are experiencing is that your hair breaks faster than it grows. I would appreciate if you read these posts on hair breaking to figure out why it’s breaking. When you do read them and you need further clarification, please don’t hesitate to get in touch. If you prefer, we could also chat via Skype.

  13. Mimi says:

    Hello doc, please help!i want to begin my healthy relaxed hair journey!am a bit confused on products to use and not to use as a beginner .my hair is very light.dont know what to do.

    • Dr_fomsky says:

      First of all, I’ll start with what to use. Once a week (when you are carrying your hair):
      1. Pre-condition with olive oil or coconut oil. Elasta QP intense conditioner is also a great pre-poo conditioner
      2. Wash your hair with a sulfate-free shampoo. Creme of nature sulfate-free shampoo is a great option.
      3. Deep condition your hair. I personally like John Frieda conditioner
      4. Apply your leave-in conditioner. You can try Shea moisture restorative conditioner
      5. Roller set or air dry your hair (roller setting is a great option if you want to silky hair)
      6. During the week, lightly moisturize your hair. Apply a few drops of oil on your hair to seal in the moisture

  14. Jasmine says:

    I need help , I just ended a 23 week relaxer stretch last week and now my hair is breaking like crazy.

    • Dr_fomsky says:

      How many minutes did you leave the relaxer in for? If you leave the relaxer for too long, it can lead to over processed hair leading to breakage. ApHogee 2-step protein treatment can help treat over processed hair. How many times did you shampoo your hair to neutralise the relaxer? If you don’t wash your hair adequately, breakage can also occur. Did you deep condition afterwards? Relaxers are very stripping to the hair and a good deep condition is very important after relaxing your hair.

      • Jasmine says:

        I had the relaxer in for 25 mins and washed it 6 times and I conditioned it with ors replenishing pack

        • Dr_fomsky says:

          Sounds like you did everything right. Try using ApHogee 2-step protein on your next wash day. Coconut oil also helps. It’s best used as a prepoo oil. Leave it for at least 30 minutes before washing your hair. Use a heating tool if possible

  15. Sue says:

    Hi Doc,
    I cannot tolerate the high scent of perfume due to chemically sensitivity. Can you please recommend any unscented products such as shampoo, conditioner, leave in conditioner and moisturizer. I have been researching to make my own moisturizer even the scent of shea butter bothers me. Desperately awaiting your response

    Thanks alot

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